Levisticum officinale

Lovage is native to Western Asia and Southern Europe, where it has been used since Roman times, and has never become popular outside of Europe.

The difference between the wild and the cultivated lovage is imperceptible - and the plant has taken root everywhere - even in Australia.

In Italy, it is mostly associated with Liguria – the name levisticum may come from ligusticum, or ligurian. It is believed that the lovage was brought to North America by the Puritan settlers.

FLAVOR

Lovage is very aromatic, somewhat similar to celery (the French call it celery batard, or false celery), but stronger, with an undertone of musk and notes of anise, lemon and yeast.

The aroma is recognizable and persistent.

USED ARE the leaves, stem, root and seeds.

PURCHASE AND STORAGE

The seeds and dry ground root can be bought in spice shops. Halved lovage is rarely sold, but you can easily grow it yourself; seeds or plants can be bought in greenhouses.

The leaves can be picked at any time; they can stay in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.

First, cut the stems at the bottom, which grow from the outside. When the seeds turn brown, pick the budding stalks and hang them upside down to dry, and cover the seeds with a paper bag. It can stand like this for a year or two.

USE IN COOKING

Lovage can be used like celery or parsley in almost any dish, but it is stronger than them and should be used with caution. Its pungency evaporates when cooked. The leaves, chopped stems and root are good in poultices, soups and casseroles.

In some diets, it is an advantage that lovage can be used instead of salt. A simple soup is made from the young leaves, with the leaves themselves or with potatoes, carrots or artichokes, often used in seafood broths.

It is good with green salads; older leaves can liven up a bean or potato dish or stuffing for poultry. It is worth trying the sweet potatoes and roasted beets, as well as the potato cookies with sweet potatoes and Cheddar or Gruyere cheese, as well as the baked creamy vegetable dishes with sweet potatoes.

Whole or ground seeds can be used for pickling, sauces, marinades, bread and crackers. The hollow stems can be blanched and prepared as a vegetable.

GOOD WITH apples, carrots, corn, cream cheeses, egg dishes, ham, lamb, legumes, mushrooms, onions, pork, potatoes and other root vegetables, rice, smoked fish, tomatoes, tuna, zucchini.

COMBINES WELL WITH bay leaf, caraway, chili, chives, dill, garlic, juniper, oregano, parsley, thyme.

Other types of lovage

Scottish sweet (Ligusticum scoticum), originates from the Northern Hemisphere. It does not grow as tall as L. Officinale and is less pungent; it mostly has white flowers. It is used in the same way as ordinary lovage.

Black lovage (Smyrnium olusatrum) or Alexanders is another tall growing plant from the umbellifer family that has been cultivated in southern and western Europe since ancient times and throughout the Middle Ages.

Prized in Elizabethan seafood and fish dishes, it was brought to North America in the 16th century. It is grown as easily as the common sweet potato, looks similar to it, and is used the same.